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Cuisine
The
rich heritage and culture of Andhra Pradesh are
reflected in the culinary skills of its people.
The mere mention of Andhra and Hyderabadi
cuisine brings before the mind’s eye a
wholesome meal accompanied by hot tasty pickles
or ‘Biryani’ accompanied by an appetising
aroma.
But
there is more to the cuisine of the State with
each of the three regions — Coastal Andhra,
Rayalaseema and Telangana — having its
distinctive style of cooking. Chillies and spice
are used in abundance but this need not deter
food lovers from indulging themselves in a
feast. By and large, the cuisine is vegetarian
but the Moghal influence in the Deccan made
‘Moghlai’ cooking popular.
Moghlai
While Hyderabad
is known for its wholesome Biryani and a wide
range of non-vegetarian as well as vegetarian
fare, the coastal region of the State offers a
wide choice as far as vegetarian cooking and
pickles are concerned. The chillies grown in the
region are highly potent and this gives the
special flavour to the pickles.
Those
willing to let themselves go for Moghlai cooking
can choose from a large variety. ‘Sheermal’,
a local variety of bread, or tandoori roti baked
on hot coals are on the starting line. The
non-vegetarian dishes include ‘paya’ —
hoof of lamb cooked over a slow fire overnight
in a spicy soup so that by morning the bones
become soft and chewable — and ‘zubaan’
— lamb tongue cooked in the same manner.
Haleem
is pieces of boneless mutton cooked over a long
period with pounded wheat to form a spicy
porridge. Most of the dishes are available in
the evening and before sunrise in hundreds of
hotels and restaurants during the fasting month
of Ramzan and are popular meals to break or
begin the fast with.
And
it is not only meat and fowl that Moghlai deals
with. The brinjal or ‘eggplant’ that has no
taste of its own is given a spicy, tangy flavour
in the ‘bagara baigan’, using tamarind and
spices. Dalcha is a watery dal in which ‘kaddu
(pumpkin)’ or boneless mutton is used.
‘Bagara tamatar’ and ‘mirchi ka salan’
are equally rich in spice and chillies and `bagara
khana’ makes up for the vegetarians who miss
out on the biryani.

Hot
Stuff
‘Avakai’
is the really hot and tangy mango pickle and
there is hardly any household in the region that
does not prepare it during the summer. The raw mangoes
too are extremely sour and the pickle combined
with the harsh chilli-powder and pungent mustard
in oil gives it a heady taste.
Gongura,
known as ‘ambada’ in Hindi and Urdu, is a
sour-tasting leaf that goes into either
‘dal’ or is converted into a ‘chutney’
— another speciality in Andhra. Gongura
chutney with either red or green chillies gives
a taste hard to find elsewhere. You also find a
lot of tasty non-vegetarian dishes blended with green
leafy vegetables, like ‘palak mutton’,
‘methi chicken’, ‘kheema methi’ and
‘mutton ambada (Gongura)’, which has
resulted from combination of Hyderabad and
Andhra cuisine.
A
typical Andhra meal has lots of chillies and is
often accompanied by pickles. While raw mango
pickle is the hot favourite, others include lemon,
gooseberry, ‘Gongura’ and even
ripe chillies pickles. Ripe red chillies and tamarind are used
to make ‘chutney’ that is preserved
throughout the year.
Curried
prawns and fish with rice are specialities in
many coastal Andhra towns and cities. Rice is
the staple food in Andhra Pradesh and forms the
main dish even in Moghlai cooking.

Something
Sweet
Sweets and
‘kheer’ are not everyday affairs but form
part of the meal on special occasions in any
part of the State. It is mainly during
festivities that full rein is given to the
preparation. While `Sheer Khorma’ is the milky
vermicelli sweet popular in Hyderabad, other
dessert delicacies include "Double-ka-meetha
(a bread pudding)" and "Khubani-ka-meetha",
a syrupy speciality made with apricots and lots of sugar. In other parts of
Andhra, a rice and milk delicacy is "ksheerannam"
in which jaggery (gur) and powdered cardamom
enhance the taste.
While Moghlai cuisine tops the list, Andhra
food comes a close second. It is often that
regular non-vegetarians
break their routine by going in for a typical
Andhra meal.
The
cuisine of Andhra Pradesh is a gourmet’s
delight, truly. Such delicacies are offered by
the hotels, restaurants and dhabas in and around
all major cities of the State.
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